A console that won't boot isn't done for — it's usually just tired. I diagnose what's actually wrong, clean out decades of dust, and repair what's repairable so your old hardware gets another run. No promises I can't keep, just honest work on the machines I grew up with.
- Diagnosis first — you'll know what's wrong before any work starts
- Power, video, and audio faults traced and repaired where possible
- Cartridge slots and 72-pin connectors cleaned or replaced
- A/V jacks, power jacks, and switches repaired or re-seated
- Full teardown cleaning — dust, grime, and corrosion removed
- Tested with real games before it goes back to you
The faults that come in most
No power at all is often the power supply rather than the console — a failed brick or a broken barrel jack. No picture, rolling video, or sound that's dropped to a hum usually points at aging capacitors or a tired A/V jack. A flashing NES, or games that need reseating three times, is the cartridge connector giving up.
Then there's the quiet killer: a leaked battery or corrosion inside a machine that sat in a damp basement. That one is caught early or not at all, which is why a console that boots but acts strange is still worth looking at.
Systems I work on
NES and Famicom, Super Nintendo, Nintendo 64, Sega Genesis and Master System, Atari 2600 and 7800, and the Game Boy family. Cartridge machines and the games that run on them — no disc-based systems or drive repair.
If your system isn't listed, ask anyway. A lot of cartridge-era hardware shares the same handful of failure modes.
Sending a console safely
Consoles need real packing: a box the machine can't shift inside of, cushioning on all six sides, and nothing loose that can work its way into the cartridge slot. Include the power supply and A/V cable so the whole chain can be tested together.
Mail-in runs nationwide on the same two-label setup as cartridges — one label out, one label home, both paid up front so nothing stalls once the repair is done.
Questions people ask
My NES flashes on every game — is that the console?
Almost certainly. The NES 72-pin connector loses tension over time and stops gripping the cartridge properly. Cleaning or replacing it is the standard fix, and it turns a temperamental console back into a reliable one.
Do you diagnose before charging for repairs?
Always. The console is opened, tested, and diagnosed first, and you get told what's wrong and what it takes to fix before any repair work is authorized.
Can every console be saved?
No. Water damage, battery leakage on a board, severe corrosion, or a previous rough repair can put a machine beyond economical repair. You'll get that answer plainly instead of an open-ended bill.
Should I send controllers and cables too?
Send the power supply and A/V cable — a lot of “dead console” tickets turn out to be a failed power brick or a broken cable. Controllers are welcome if they're part of the problem.
All work is carried out under the repair authorization & risk acknowledgment.